Recently, the photography exhibition “Haircut 100” was held at the carriage trade gallery on Grand St in Manhattan, offering free access to the public. The book’s author and photography artist Ho Tam presented the captivating stories behind this everyday Chinese service in a manner that resembles an informal travelogue through Chinatown.
“Haircut 100” was published in 2015, with the author visiting 100 barber shops on streets such as Pell, Kenmare, Grand St, East Broadway, Market St, and Eldridge. Through images, descriptive text, interviews, and maps, the book introduces the foundational industry of the early Chinese immigrant community and sketches the portrait of an essential industry in Chinatown’s immigrant economy.
Experts like Peter Scott, a writer, curator, and director of the carriage trade gallery, noted the significance of the barbering industry in Chinatown. Scott emphasized that despite the small size of these shops, they collectively represent a crucial sector in the community. Data at the time indicated that barber shops in Chinatown were second only to restaurants, making it the district’s second-largest industry.
Attracting a large number of Chinese immigrants with their affordable prices, barber shops in Chinatown became a vital part of the community’s immigrant economy. According to Chen Zuozhou, the executive director of Chinatown BID, barber services are essential for everyone, regardless of nationality, as they provide a basic necessity that transcends cultural boundaries.
The history of barbering in Chinatown reflects a continuation of practices from China, where cutting hair often served as a means of livelihood for early Chinese immigrants in America. This tradition not only contributed to the immigrant economy but also became a symbol of cultural exchange and integration in Chinatown.
Walking the densely populated streets of barbershops in Chinatown, one can see many shops situated in lower-rent basement spaces, helping business owners keep operational costs to a minimum. Some barbers even used rented barber chairs to conduct business, allowing for a more affordable way to operate.
Chen Zuozhou added that Chinese hair textures differ from those of Westerners, making the skills of Chinese barbers still sought after. Despite the added cost of transportation due to traffic, getting a haircut in Chinatown remains a worthwhile investment due to the quality of service provided.
Scott, the gallery director, cited Ho Tam’s statement that “hair symbolizes power, freedom, and self-expression,” showing that the book is not just about barbering but also a reflection of the lifestyle of Chinatown residents.
One interviewee featured in the book is a barber who has been in New York for 45 years, claiming to be the oldest local barber still serving customers in his seventies. He brought with him traditional craftsmanship learned as an apprentice in Hong Kong at the age of 13 and has witnessed the changes in Chinatown over the years.
The book also documents some shop owners relocating to Flushing or Sunset Park to reopen their businesses, yet dozens of barber shops still remain in Chinatown, preserving the heritage and traditions of the neighborhood.
Scott mentioned that carriage trade is a non-profit gallery, organizing this exhibition to bring the histories of these shops located near the gallery into the exhibition space, bridging the gap between different neighborhood stories.
The “Haircut 100” photography exhibition is displayed in mural form directly on the gallery walls at the carriage trade gallery from now until April 6th (Sunday), with free entry. The gallery is located at 277 Grand St, 2nd floor, and opens from Thursday to Sunday, 1 PM to 6 PM.