Before coming to Taiwan, I had never heard of “Wulai,” but after visiting, I cannot forget it. The lush green valleys, the rushing emerald streams, the falling Wulai Waterfall, the charming Wulai Old Street with its Atayal culture, the simple and sincere Atayal people, and the unique Atayal culture have left a mark not only in our photos and articles, but also in our hearts. This trip allowed us to admire the beauty, taste the delicious food, and learn about the culture, making us deeply appreciate the efforts of the Overseas Community Affairs Council.
Wulai is located in the mountainous area, and visitors need to drive from Xindian District or take a bus for about 30 minutes to reach it. The winding narrow mountain roads are surrounded by lush green trees and bamboo, offering different scenery at every turn. The journey is not only pleasant but also refreshing as the landscape becomes more elevated and the view widens.
Our tour bus parked at a designated large bus parking lot while next to it was a multi-story parking lot for private cars. Walking past this multi-level parking lot, we were surprised to see a huge painting on the first floor wall, resembling a chalk drawing on a blackboard, depicting the scenery of Wulai Old Street, titled “Impressions of Wulai.” Unfortunately, we could only catch a glimpse of it as we were there during the Wulai Marathon, where the starting point and finish line were at the parking lot.
The marathon route boasts the most waterfalls in Taiwan, passing through landmarks such as Nanxi Creek, Lansheng Bridge, Wulai Waterfall, Wucho Creek, and Butterfly Park. Participants were encouraged to run slowly to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the gorge and waterfalls. The finish line prizes included local specialties such as millet wine, mountain pepper, and turmeric. For many, participating in this marathon was not just about running but also about admiring the scenery and absorbing the rich essence of the forests. This event also promoted tourism in Wulai, attracting many visitors and revenue.
Crossing the small bridge over Tonghou Creek, we paused to take in the view. On one side, we saw the rapid Tonghou Creek, the Bi-Shan Pavilion Hotel along the creek, and the Miao Xinshe Temple on the hillside. On the other side, Tonghou Creek merged into the relatively gentle Nanxi Creek. The water of Tonghou Creek was emerald green, while Nanxi Creek water had a milky white color, creating an interesting contrast.
After crossing the bridge is Wulai Old Street, where we revisited. Walking through the old street and passing Lansheng Bridge, we approached one of the main attractions of our trip, Wulai Waterfall. From there, we took the Wulai tourist tram, a unique tram railway in Taiwan. Sitting inside the open tram car, we arrived at the waterfall in just five minutes, feeling relaxed and content.
My editor and I decided to hike, following the hot spring street along Nanxi Creek, chatting as we walked. This trail, also known as Lover’s Path, is about 2 kilometers long with gentle slopes, offering a peaceful walk alongside the murmuring creek on one side and lush greenery on the other. Apart from the occasional motorcycle passing by, the only sounds were the gentle mountain breeze and the chirping of birds in the trees. Despite breaking a sweat, the breathtaking views made it all worth it.
After a twenty-minute walk, feeling a bit tired, we caught sight of a waterfall cascading down the mountain like white ribbons – we had arrived! Wulai Waterfall, also known as “Yunxian Waterfall,” is the largest waterfall drop in northern Taiwan and was once listed as one of Taiwan’s eight scenic spots during the Japanese colonial period. A viewing platform across the waterfall offers a frontal view of the waterfall cascading 80 meters down between the mountains, splitting into three sections before plunging into Nanxi Creek. Cherry blossom trees lining the waterfall were not in bloom as it was late autumn. In spring, when the cherry blossoms bloom, it will add even more color to the scenery.
Standing on the viewing platform across the waterfall, feeling the mist wafting from the cascading water, refreshed us as we thought of a line by the poet Xin Qiji: “I see the green mountains are charming, and they must see me in the same way.” Compared to world-famous gorges and waterfalls, the mountains and water of Wulai may not be as grand, but their beauty is charming and lovely, deserving the title of “charming,” like a precious gem, delicate and endearing.
From the Waterfall Tram Station, you can also take the Wulai Gondola to reach the higher Yuen-Sen Park, overlooking the entire Wulai Old Street and Waterfall panorama from above. Yuen-Sen Park is a forest amusement park with facilities such as an archery range, paintball area, swimming pool, and shaded walking paths, where visitors can even stay overnight in the mountains.
After coming down from the waterfall and having lunch at the old street, we explored the area even further. Wulai Old Street is lined with various shops selling local produce and snacks. As an outsider, many of the fruits and vegetables seemed exotic to me, such as the bright red and spiky wood turtle fruit, the squash-like bitter melon, the edible fern shoots known as “Cat’s Tears,” and the uniquely named “Lover’s Tears.” One particularly unique find was the Taiwan-specific black diamond peanuts with their dark skin, which I enjoyed so much that I bought two bags – one to enjoy during my stay in Taiwan and the other to carry back with me to the United States.
The renowned local snacks include bamboo rice, fried river prawns, river fish, wild boar meat, millet wine, hot spring eggs, and more. However, our tour group had a hearty lunch of Wulai specialties, which left little room to try the local snacks, much to our regret. But the chicken soup with mountain pepper we had for lunch, infused with the fragrance of mountain pepper, lemongrass, and lemon, was truly delightful.
Everywhere you go, you’ll see signs for hot springs, with numerous hot spring hotels and businesses offering soaking services. Hot springs are a major feature of Wulai and an essential tourist attraction. The name “Wulai” is derived from the Atayal word “Ulay,” which means “hot water,” later interpreted as hot springs. Wulai’s hot springs are categorized as bicarbonate springs with no sulfur smell, known for their skin-rejuvenating properties, earning them the nickname “beauty springs.”
The Overseas Community Affairs Council arranged this trip not only for us to admire Wulai Waterfall but also to observe and learn about Taiwan’s indigenous culture, represented by the Atayal tribe. The Atayal tribe is the largest group in the Wulai area, with traces of Atayal culture visible throughout Wulai. At the entrance of the old street is the Wulai Atayal Museum, a highlight of the itinerary.
Before exploring the Atayal tribe, let’s briefly review Taiwan’s indigenous peoples. Indigenous peoples refer to the dozens of Austronesian tribes who settled in Taiwan before the arrival of Han immigrants in the 17th century. Classifying these tribal groups has been a challenging issue, and they were once roughly divided into highland and plains tribes, or simply categorized as Highland tribes by authorities in mainland China. Currently, there are 16 officially recognized indigenous tribes in Taiwan, with a total population of about 610,000, accounting for 2.5% of the island’s population. Among these tribes, the Atayal tribe is the third largest in terms of population, following the Amis and Paiwan tribes, and holds the largest land area among all indigenous groups.
Despite their small population, indigenous peoples’ social status has steadily risen in the past two to three decades. They have their own designated national holiday, Indigenous Peoples’ Day on August 1st, and the Council of Indigenous Peoples established in 1996 was upgraded to a ministry-level agency in 2014. In comparison, the Hakka Affairs Council, which governs the Hakka people and is also a ministry-level agency, represents around 4.67 million people. The government allocates significant funds each year for the preservation and promotion of indigenous cultures, including the Wulai Atayal Museum, which opened in 2005.
The Wulai Atayal Museum has three floors showcasing the Atayal tribe’s history, traditional customs, religious beliefs, and daily life, among other aspects. Due to the diverse content, it’s recommended to take a guided tour provided by the museum. Our guide that day was a young Atayal man named Gao Fu, whose Chinese name was recorded as “麻雀” but unfortunately, we did not note down his Atayal name. Despite his young age, Gao Fu possessed a deep knowledge of his people’s cultural history, easily identifying and explaining the objects on display and promptly answering our inquiries.
Thanks to Gao Fu’s explanations, we gained a general understanding of the Atayal tribe. The origin story of this tribe is fascinating – legend has it that male and female ancestors emerged from a crack in a giant rock and subsequently migrated to various locations to establish tribes. This myth reminded many of us of the mythical birth of the Monkey King. Currently, the Atayal tribe is distributed in the central and northern mountainous regions of Taiwan, representing the most geographically extensive tribe among Taiwan’s indigenous people.
“The Atayal,” phonetically translated from “atayal,” means “person” or “kinsman.” As a community-oriented tribe, Atayal culture emphasizes shared heritage within the tribe. Their traditional belief system centers around supernatural ancestral spirits, utux, and adherence to ancestral rules, gaga. Their economic activities focus on agriculture and hunting, with group hunting being integral to their lifestyle, ensuring an equal distribution of the hunt among members.
One of the most representative aspects of Atayal culture is tattoos called “Be’an.” This practice is unique to the Atayal tribe, with different tattoo styles for men and women, symbolizing adulthood and the ability to marry and start a family. During the Japanese colonial era, tattooing was strictly prohibited, resulting in a dwindling number of Atayal individuals with traditional tattoos, which have all but disappeared over the last two to three generations.
To outsiders like us, the Atayal tattoo practice may appear challenging to understand and accept, as it can be perceived as painful and unattractive. However, for the Atayal people, tattooing is not only a significant life milestone but also a necessary process to maintain their ethnic identity and as a verification credential for their souls to enter the ancestral spirit’s abode after death. After the Japanese government banned the practice in the early 20th century, many Atayal individuals clandestinely tattooed themselves, preserving this tradition.
Many objects in the museum serve more as artifacts than art pieces, prioritizing historical accuracy over aesthetic appeal. Therefore, while viewing these items, it’s essential to appreciate Atayal culture from the perspective of Atayal people and avoid judging based on Han Chinese standards. With the efforts of the museum and individuals like Gao Fu, Atayal culture can be preserved, representing a significant achievement.
This day’s journey to Wulai was truly enriching and definitely worth it.
(To be continued)