In New York’s Chinatown, the traditional and iconic “Phoenix Bakery” located at 41 Mott St. has been under renovation since the retirement of the owner at the end of July, delaying the opening of the new establishment. Recently, the new sign for the storefront was unveiled, bearing the name “Mei Lai Wah Bakery,” another renowned traditional restaurant in Chinatown and one of the branches of Mei Lai Wah.
The employees of the second location of Mei Lai Wah at 23 Pell St., known for its dumplings, revealed that the new establishment is still undergoing interior renovations with plans to open to the public in about a month, making it Mei Lai Wah’s third branch. It is noteworthy that the new store is only a two-minute walk away from the Pell Street location, prompting questions about the choice of such proximity.
Since its establishment in 1968, Mei Lai Wah Teahouse at 62 Bayard St. has a history of 56 years. The teahouse is operated by a couple from Taishan, Guangdong, known for their authentic Hong Kong-style char siu bao, cheong fun, congee, and a variety of noodle dishes. With quality ingredients and affordable prices, the teahouse has attracted numerous food enthusiasts. Through social media promotion, customers from far and wide visit daily, willing to wait in long lines to savor the delicious offerings. The teahouse opens at 8:30 am daily, with many customers arriving early to queue up for breakfast.
Local residents mention that the teahouse originally had limited seating but due to high demand, it transitioned to a smart ordering system outside where customers order and takeaway, unable to dine indoors. Despite this, the sight of queues outside the restaurant is still common. Many customers express disappointment as they often pass by wanting a meal but are deterred by the long queues.
Recently, the establishment announced on Facebook, “You no longer need to queue up on Chinatown’s tiniest street! We love you all, appreciate your support, allowing us to make this urgently needed change!”
Chinatown BID Executive Director Chen Zuozhou stated that upon learning about the retirement of the owner of Phoenix Bakery, Mei Lai Wah swiftly leased the space and began renovations. The new location is much more spacious than the previous one, with additional seating planned and the recruitment of more staff to enhance service efficiency and reduce customer waiting times.
Interestingly, the new sign of Mei Lai Wah’s new branch still retains the bilingual Phoenix Bakery sign in English and Chinese, preserving both legacy signs, evoking nostalgic feelings for some long-time customers. The first owner of Phoenix Bakery hailed from Hong Kong, and the retiring owner, who took over for 35 years, continued the tradition of crafting nostalgic snacks enjoyed by older generations.
As for the original location of Mei Lai Wah on Bayard St., it is reported that the landlord had attempted to find new tenants at a higher rent, but it is currently unclear whether Mei Lai Wah will continue to lease the space in the future.